CENT’ ANNI

CENT’ ANNI 

by David Rich 

This is the premier of a wine column that Giuseppe LaPira and I hope will be educational as well as entertaining. The education for most readers begins with the title of our column. Salute and Cin Cin are the two best known Italian toasts, but there are others: “cento di questi giorni” means “I wish you a hundred of these days” and “cent’ anni” means “hundreds of years”. But regardless of what you say beforehand, we urge you to enjoy the wonderful wines of Italy.

Italy represents one of the largest wine-producing regions in the world, but many people only know three or four Italian wines, let alone regions. Ask most people to name as many wine regions in Italy as they can and you might get one or two. But in fact there are 20 separate and distinct regions that encompass the entirety of the country.

Before we discuss a particular region, you need to know three important abbreviations used for Italian wines and foods: DO – Denominazione di Origine (designation of origin, the lowest level, which is seldom used); DOC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata (controlled designation of origin); and DOCG – Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (controlled and guaranteed designation of origin, the highest level). All three require that a food product be produced within the specified region using defined methods and that it satisfy a defined quality standard, and constitute the core of the very strict laws that preserve wine- making traditions and ensure that consumers get an authentic product.

A notable difference for wines is that DOCG labeled wines are analyzed and tasted by government–licensed personnel before being bottled. To prevent later manipulation, DOCG wine bottles then are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork. Italian legislation additionally regulates the use of certain qualifying terms for wines: Classico is reserved for wines produced in the region where a particular type of wine has been produced “traditionally” (e.g., the Chianti Classico “traditional region” is defined by a decree from July 10, 1932); and Riserva, which may be used only for wines that have been aged at least two years longer than normal for a particular type of wine. Wines labeled DOC or DOCG may only be sold in bottles holding 5 liters or less.

Wines from most of the Italian regions are available locally at Total Wines and at BevMo. Prices can vary from less than $10 to over $50, just like California wines. And, just like California wines, price does not always indicate quality. There are excellent wines for under $10, and some wines selling for over $50 may not be as appealing. We suggest that you consult people at the stores who know about Italian wines and get their opinions. But the final judge is you. If you like it, it is worth the price.

Likewise, there is no hard and fast rule about wine and food pairings. Rather than “white wines go with fish or chicken, and red wines go with red meats and pasta with red sauce (okay, gravy for a lot of you),” use the guideline of “lighter, fruity wines go with lighter, fruitier foods, and big bold wines go with heavier, heartier foods.” But if you prefer a Barolo with your salmon or a Soave with your steak, enjoy. The only hard and fast rule is, “If you like it, drink it!”